This isn't really a recommendation, just some input. I got a second hand Tascam 2524 and I use an M-Audio Delta 101LT interface. Together that cost me some 500 Euros a couple of years ago, and sounds awesome.
It's not a recommendation because:
The M2524 only have 24 ins, you want 32. OK, each channel on the Tascam is actually two channels, so you get 48, but then it gets confusing, because you have 24 channels on faders and 24 on knobs.
The Delta 1010LT was a mistake because it has a snake of outputs in the back with is a pain. The Delta 1010, that has a rack unit for in/outs should do better, but is way more expensive, and you'll need two. Then again, all others are expensive too and it seems hard to find just plan 16in/16out expansions. And if you plan on a "hardwired installation" then you could probably solder cables from the patch panel directly to the D-SUB of the 1010LT, which then would be a good value for money in/out.
Just my cents.
Update about "hardwired":
I don't know if that's the official term, maybe "fixed installation" is more common. Anyway many studios use patch panels that have rear solder points. That means that the cable between for example an outboard reverb and the patch bay is a custom cable that has a plug for the outboard in one end, but is soldered directly into the patch panel in the other. When you do this, every single cable you use in the installation is soldered by hand by the guy doing the installation (ie you) and in that case you can just as well solder a 25 pin dsub for the audio card. That pretty much solves the problem with the messy snake.
But if you plan to instead use standard cables that you bought, which is less work but more expensive (if you know how to solder, that is), then the 1010LT is not for you, although the 1010 may be, it has a nice rack that contains the connectors.