There are several ways to do this. Simple answer: You can edit each channel separately. When the wave-form is selected, you can hit the up arrow key or down arrow key to change the selection to left only or right only. You can choose to Normalize each channel to 100% or adjust them by ear. Or you can play it totally safe and mix either channel separately ...
I had this exact issue for ages on MacOS, audio was high-pitched & had intermittent silence. The fix was to make sure that the Audio Rate setting on the H4N was set the same as the driver's setting in "Audio Midi Setup".
The problem was that the driver was trying to read 48,000 samples a second from the device, but it was only recording at 44,100 ...
Yes, microphones like the AT899 give you the option of using internal battery power OR phantom power (from the XLR).
Yes, microphones like the Rode Lav require phantom power without the option.
Yes, the more phantom power is sucked out of your Zoom H6, the faster it drains the available battery power. You are almost always better off running equipment ...
My advice would be to stick to the exact cards in the list.
I have had a series of problems with write errors on my H4n with several different SD cards.
In the beginning I bought a class 10 - 32gb Sandisk and had constant write errors.
Then I used a class 10 - 16gb Sandisk and had the same problems.
After that I tried a smaller 8gb class 10 card from ...
Borrowed from a comment I made to another answer asking a similar question:
There's known line-level issues with the H4n, so unfortunately it's not quite that simple (thanks to Samson's/Zoom's fault here). It's a Hi-Z (unbalanced, high-impedance) which still feeds thru the preamp instead of being a direct, true professional line level. Leads to distortion ...
The cable included in the pack you link to is an attenuated cable - that means it is designed to reduce the Zoom's output from headphone/line level to the mic level input that your camera is expecting.
Because the cable is doing the reduction, you will probably need to leave the gain on the camera at its normal setting for a directly plugged in microphone ...
There usually is a "native" setting called Unity. At that position, the signal is neither attenuated nor amplified artificially.
Basically you need to see what is the Unity for your particular device, and try to keep it at that level.
With 24bit recordings, softer sounds can always be successfully amplified/normalized in post.
Of course, you don't want to ...
The recorder supports 3 different recording modes:
Stereo: either the build-in mics OR external inputs)
4CH: a stereo file for the build in mics AND another stereo file for the external inputs)
MTR: Custom mono/stereo setup for all 4 channels.
MTR Mode is probably the one you want to go for. In MTR mode, you can send any input to any track. For example ...
The pop shield (the circle one) is for regular speech recordings. It blocks out the 'P' and 'B' sounds that could possibly create a 'pop' in the recording and make it sound low quality.
The windshield (the one that slips over the mic) is just a windshield. It doesn't protect against pops or 'P' and 'B' sounds.
Basically use the circle one. And point the ...
Yes, the H4n has the option for 4 channel recording, which uses both external inputs and the onboard mics. This will generate two separate .wav files, one for external and one for onboard, although in the H4n browser it displays it as one recording.
Hope that helps!
I believe it is on page 71 of the manual: Input / monitor / On. No extra equipment needed. ( Disclaimer: I have not used the H4n ).
Sorry, but this is wired about as wrong as it's possible to do:\
You're running stereo into balanced line, then splitting the balanced line & hoping to get stereo back. That is not going to happen.
Also you're trying to run a line-level output into a mic-level input. That's going to burn something out if you're not careful.
This is the pinout for the H4n ...
There are two main issues to consider when dealing with your project :
Let's say you want to record continuous 24 hours audio on two tracks and that every 24 hours you can stop recording for a few minutes to change recording medium and power supply.
Although you mention that
Audio quality is not ...
The H4N supplies phantom power, so that means you can use basically any microphone you want. According to the specifications you can have 48 or 24 volt, or have phantom power OFF.
Because "lapel" mics are condenser mics, and because of their small size the electronics must be separated from the mic itself, you have to take into account that you either have ...
It looks like you have a number of options on the back of the Alto that you can use:
'2track in/out' is usually intended for this purposes on most mixers, that means you would need an RCA/phono cable to connect to the outputs. It looks to me like you also have 2 output options for the main ...
The pop filter should, by design, offer you some protection from plosives. Since the mic is on a tripod you do not need to worry so much about protecting the mic with the foam windshield, unless there is a fan or breeze in the room. That is typically what the windshield is for.
The H4n built-in mics are 2 stereo cardioids that are in an XY position, which ...
I think you can get a good recording with the zoom, although a lot will depend on circumstances that you won't be able to control like noise, traffic, etc.
Try to figure out how long a recording you need (ie one song, or one minute or half an hour) for editing and then after you got it switch positions or setups to maximize your chances of getting a great ...
You need something to separate the send audio (you) from the received audio (the person being interviewed). This is done with a "hybrid" adapter. For example a device like the JK Audio Autohybrid. It provides a way to record only the received audio and a way to feed audio into the phone line.
Yes you should always use the boom as well as a lav, as the lav mic could sound crappy and if that's all you have then you're screwed.
It could fall off, scratch against clothes, get wind noise, lots of things, but if you have a boom over the top then you're covered.
Leave the Zoom's input gain adjust at default (100, if it's the same as my old H2) -- the H2's numeric adjustment just scaled the already-digitised signal, which was no good and resulted in a loss of bit depth.
I wouldn't use the Mic In unless it doubles as a Line In -- or just use the XLR Ins and set them to Line Level if possible.
The Mic In has a lower ...
Pull and HOLD the on switch down for a couple seconds. A momentary flick won't do it. If that doesn't work, your unit is defective.
Also note that you don't want to slide it up. Sliding up will lock in to position, but that is a hold setting to prevent accidental adjustments to controls, it will not turn the unit on.
I'm not sure how many different ...
XLR inputs are mic inputs on the H4n, not line. Put a 40db pad or so on the line and it will probably work ok, though you may still have some quality loss from impedance differences depending on the output.
You are using an attenuating cable to make it so that the headphone signal output of the H4n will drop to the line input level your DSLR expects, however you are confusing gain and sensitivity. Gain is an analog means of boosting a signal. It is increasing a signal beyond 0dB signal and uses something called a pre-amp to increase the signal strength.
the D50 is a fantastic recorder if you can afford to buy it over the H4n, the mics don't sound any better and the noise floor fairly similar with both using XY electret mics which always exhibit noise, the D50 is a tad quieter but I doubt in real world scenarios you'll find yourself in a quiet room recording nothing with built in mics.
the preamps in the H4n ...