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This is nothing to do with ground issues, but more to do with the fact that your config is set up to allow output on one or both devices to be fed to an input.
Check your audio properties. You should be able to assign devices to input or output, or mute when recording.
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That device is built around the ADuM4160. I have used that device to isolate USB and it works great, however I have never used it for audio applications. It should break a ground loop, assuming that is the problem that you are hearing.
Note that the ADuM4160 max speed is 12 Mbps. Some USB devices expect to be able to function at 480 MBps, but an audio ...
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This technique has nothing to do with "removing" hum from recordings - it's all about using the very slight - but trackable - variations in mains frequency (50Hz or 60Hz depending on where you are) - to authenticate recordings.
Localised recordings of mains AC frequency can be spectrally tracked so that the variations in the AC frequency can be compared ...
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Thing is, that if two points in a circuit are actually "ground" (i.e. 0V potential) then by definition, no current can flow between these two points.
When current does flow between two arbitrary points on a circuit (that we may consider to be 'ground') this actually means that one or another of these points is actually not ground. Only one of them is. ...
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Distortion in the form of clipping would be very difficult to remove: the waveform has been altered, and information on the missing part of the waveform has been lost.
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Depends on what sort of result you want. Sure you can analyze whether a file contains more than a reasonable amount of 50Hz or 60Hz and you can notch that out, but the problem with this approach is that every file is likely to be different and will require the attention of someone with the requisite skills in order to be able to get the best result. If you ...
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Could be any of the three (or most likely a combination):
power supply
UST (under saddle transducer pickup)
preamp circuitry
You already tried out different power supplies, but still that's where I'm thinking the problem starts as you say there is no hum with the battery supply.
The circuitry and transducer could amplify even the slightest ripple from ...
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It sound like the good version has simply been cleaned up using equalization.
The humming you speak of is just bad low frequency 'rumble'. It's a bad recording, but in the cleaner version somebody has removed some of the more troublesome frequencies, and maybe boosted some of the brightness.
It would be pretty easy to tidy up the 'bad' version using the ...
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Sounds like you could benefit from a pre-amp of some sort to between the microphone and your camera. Your camera most likely takes a line level signal into the Aux jack. Here is an example of one way to handle your issue: The Saramonic SR-AX107 It will take the microphone and provide enough gain to get the signal up to line level. I can't vouch for the ...
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What type of cables are you using to connect your audio interface into your camera? Does it support TRS? TRS cables generally do a great job of eliminating noise. The issue could range from gain staging (input on camera is too high), cable selection or it could be that the camera itself has a high self noise ratio.
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There are a few things that are causing problems for you here. Mainly that your source is designed to drive a set of headphones and your load (sound card) is designed to accept an electret microphone at its input.
I haven't been able to get the headphone output to work using simple headphones through a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter
First confirm that your ...
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1) - Make sure everything is plugged in to the same circuit. You can get a 60-cycle hum from having amps on one circuit and the board on another.
2) - Does the interface have an option for DC power from a transformer? Is so, you may want to get one and use it. Make sure the polarity is correct (TRS).
3) - Sometimes an interface will have a ground screw ...
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