There is a bit of misunderstanding here. The amplifier specification is a maximum power output - ie 2 x 100 W or less. The loudspeaker specification is a maximum allowed power input 160W or less -- more and the speaker will be damaged. So from this it seems like a good match.
How much power the amplifier will consume depends on how high you turn the volume - higher volume more power consumed. So no answer.
--- Addition to answer given below.
So, given the specifications and nothing else we can deduce the following.
.1 The speakers can take a maximum of some power before they break apart. I believe you say a maximum of 90 W per speaker. That they are 4 Ohm is a piece of information. There sensitivity is given as 89dB with one watt of input. If you input more power to the speakers they will sound louder until you put in too much power when they will start breaking. The specs seems to indicate a "consumer type" equipment and, well, the producers tend to be a bit "happy" with specifications so you do not really know. This especially with the frequency range 80-20kHz really should include some specification at which point they measure, say at -3dB. My guess is that the speakers does not output very much bass and that the very top end, which people does not hear anyway, does not come out. Well, you use what you have.
.2 The amplifier can output some maximum power before the output gets distorted. Absolute maximum can often be a bit more. But again "consumer type" equipment often has a bit of "happniness" in how specifications are measured so you cannot really tell. And again no specification of at what level of distortion they specify the output. But it says a maximum of 100W output in 4 Ohms load (which you have) before starting to distort. So my guess is that the amp outputs a good amount of power. Not amazing specs but in the real world, the important part of a system is often the speakers anyway.
.3 So speakers and amplifier seems to be pretty well mixed together. You will not get any "disco loudness" from the combination but it may be what you want. Generally what you want to look out for is when the amp starts to distort -- in my experience it usually kills the hi frequency drivers in the speaker. Often not very expensive to get spares.
.4 Now for power input to the amplifier. It should be obvious that you cannot create energy in the amplifier. Some of the energy goes to the speakers, some goes up into heat. The amplifier will use a bit of energy when idle, not playing any sound. This could be a few watts. And then the conversion is not 100% effective. Class D amplifiers are more efficient compared to class A/B, but again the specs does not say which type we have here. But in order to output 200 Watts (2x100W) my guess is that you have to input something like 250W which then would be a max power input. But again, at typical listening levels you output only a few watts to the speakers so it might require say 10W in. It all depends.
In conclusion: neither the speakers nor the amplifier seems to have very detailed specifications which suggests to me that they are "consumer type" equipment. Nothing wrong really, it all depends on where and how you are planning to use them. They will probably work good enough for a beach party. Only way to find out is to test them.